The Sangamon Settler - Clothing of the 1820s & 30s

The Purpose

2009-06-24T18:38:00.002-05:00

Sangamon County is located in central Illinois. Within its borders used to lie a dear little place, very much beloved to my heart, Lincoln's New Salem. (The restored village of New Salem is located in what is now Menard County).

The summer after my highschool graduation my father and brother and I took the volunteer training classes at New Salem. I was bewitched and fascinated by the history of the little town and the people who lived and worked there. I read all the materials that were given to me about the town and its people and found a deep passion for these long departed people and the place they - be it ever so briefly - called home.

Did we end up volunteering at New Salem? Donning the costume and sharing the history through activities and talk? No. Life intervened. I went to college. The following autumn I was married and 3 babies soon followed.

At last, after five years away, my husband and I plan on taking these classes again late this summer. My feet will once again tread those sacred pathways and my heart will once again leap for sight of a dear little cabin beneath sun-dappled trees, or the Sangamon river which was once the hope and dream of this little community.

Here on this blog I plan to document my progress as I learn more and research clothing of the 1820's and 1830's. I have a deep love for historical costuming and my favorite era is the era of the Early Pioneers to this area, pre-1830. The heyday of New Salem was the majority of the 1830's so I will be researching styles during that decade as well - focusing on the everyday, common dress of the working class, although sometimes it is hard to tell by looking at an original garment what class the lady was in who wore it!

You are very welcome to follow along if you like and help as I try to sort out what I find. I can't wait to recreate accurate ensembles for myself and my husband and three sons so that we may play the part as best we can of a Sangamon Settler.

Me in Fall 2008, my first attempt at a late 1820's style dress

Love,

Sarah

Undergarments

2009-06-24T10:53:00.002-05:00

Undergarments

1820-1838

These are photographs of original garments that I have found while web-searcing. When available, I will include an approximate date from the source site and any descriptions given with the photographs from the source site.

Corded Corset, c. 1828
from Antique Corset Gallery

c.1828. A pair of creme cotton stays most likely worn by a young lady. Soft stays of the early 19th century were not worn so much for a dramatic waist reduction but to give the body a long flowing line underneath the high waisted dresses of the era. Early 19th century stays lifted up the bustline and compressed the waist and hips into a narrower "tube" like shape so that a high waisted gown would fall unencumbered down from the high waistline.

Stays from the first part of the 19th century often had a wide, vertical center slot in which a long, straight busk made out of wood, ivory or whalebone (often highly decorated with cavings or poems) which could be inserted into the center slot for support. Busks were not always worn and could be removed easily according to your activity. Generally busks were worn for formal or evening functions and taken out for leisure.

This pair has trapunto work for support arranged in an attractive geometric pattern. Trapunto work was often used in Regency stays for figure support and decoration and was made by inserting length of wool as the channel was being sewn not like in later corsets were the bones are inserted into the bone casings after they are sewn. The stays are entirely handsewn with back stitching and have ivory grommets (called French holes) at the back for the lacing.

Measurements: Bust 28", Waist 22", Hips 26", Busk length 13 1/2".

From the collection of L. Hidic corsetsandcrinolines.com

Corded Embroidered Corset, c. 1830

from Antique Corset Gallery

c.1830 stays made from creme cotton sateen and lined in a natural muslin. This pair is completely hand stitched and have cotton cording inserted into the narrow channels to give structure to the undergarment. The surface embroidery is worked with a teal blue floss in both satin stitch and tambour stitch.The stays were never worn and were never finished as there are no eyelet holes present and the bottom edge was never finished off.

Measurements: Bust 33"-36", Waist 23"- 26", Front length 16".

From the collection of K. Augusta antique-fashion.com

Cotton Twill Stays, c. 1830-1840

from Antique Corset Gallery

c.1830-1840. A pair of stays made of cotton twill and lined in what appears to be a lightweight linen. There are 15 sets of bone eyelets down the back (known as French holes), three of which are missing. These have been neatly repaired with handsewn eyelets. The shoulder straps have French holes has well and adjust with ties.

The shaping of the corset is quite elongated and would have been used more to smooth out the figure than to emphasize the waist. The gussets are quite deep, they would have provided for a more rounded figure than the extremely pushed up bust look that accompanied the Empire waisted dresses of previous decades. Diagonal seams and hip gussets shape the torso. This pair of stays shows the slow move towards making corsets from pre- shaped pieces which would become prevalent in the Victorian era.

Measurements: Bust 24", Waist 21", Hips 27", Busk length 13".

From the collection of Katherine Caron-Greigkoshka-the-cat.com

Gowns

2009-06-24T10:32:00.008-05:00

Original Gowns
1820-1838

Blue Cotton Day Dress, 1825-1830 from Cora Ginsburg

Sky blue cotton with waistband and hem printed with small- and large-scale floral, foliate and butterfly pattern in shades of red, blue, lavender-grey, white, and black. The bodice with wide, square neckline, gathered into slightly raised waistline; leg o'mutton sleeves with wide cuffs; gathered skirt with deep flounce at hem.

White Muslin Dress, 1820's

from Antique Dress

c. 1820's Dress of White Embroidered Muslin! Delightful and feminine hand-stitched muslin dress embroidered all over with a small leaf design. Slightly elevated waist. The bodice and skirt are gathered into the waistband, and the lower skirt has a froth of pretty frills in fine muslin. I really should have photographed this dress with a slip under to give it a slightly different shape, but it's just as pretty like this. The most amazing thing about this dress is the condition... damn good! Really! Nearly good as new. Very strong fabric... and still quite white. There are a few tiny pinholes here and there, and if you look really really hard, you will see an ever so slight darkening at the double ruffled hem in one area (see photos - if you can't see what I'm talking about, that will just prove how light this is!!), but I'm being overly picky for a dress nearly 190 years old. Oh, and one other issue is that the waist tie tapes are missing at the back (only one small bit of one side still exists), but these are easily replaced. But I guarantee, you will be amazed by the overall condition! Ooh, and those cuffs are lovely! Even has a simple lacy embroidered net collar. Hand-sewn original buttons at back and cuffs. Measures: 30" bust, 24" empire waist, 50" long from shoulder to hem.

White Cotton Embroidered Dress, c. 1820
from Antique Dress

". . .Very Good condition for a gown this age. Nice and white, Strong fabric. Has pin and bebe sized holes mostly near the bottom of the dress and a lovely old "L" shape darn/repair. Gorgeous details on the bodice, hemline and cuffs! Full upper sleeves. Empire waistline. Hook and eye under-bodice closure and little tie outer-bodice closure. . ."

Silk Damask Dress, c. 1825-1830
from Vintage Textile

This lovely silk damask dress is transitional in style between the low-cut, straight empire dresses and the fuller skirts, higher necklines, and gigot sleeves of the Romantic period.
In the early 1820s, the straight lines of the Neoclassical style began to give way to the more exaggerated shapes of the Romantic period. The high waist, which returned to its natural level, was again tightened with corsets. Full skirts that emphasized the desirable small waist were back in style.
The waistline of this dress is slightly higher than the natural waist but lower than the empire waists of the preceding period. The sleeves, which are full at the top, hint at the direction sleeves would take over the following decade.
The dress is fashioned from mustard-colored silk damask. The pattern is a subtle diagonal plaid with small flowers in the diamonds. The directness and integrity of the overall design have an enduring charm and resonance.
The bodice front is lined with beige glazed cotton; the bodice back is lined with cotton canvas. The bodice seams, cuffs, and hem border are outlined with beige silk braided cord. The hem border is faced with mauve cotton.
The dress is completely hand sewn with tiny stitches in silk thread. The back waist has drawstring ties to adjust the fullness.

Cotton Print Dress, c. 1825
from Quite Contrary

Plaid Dress, c. 1830

from Quite Contrary

Original Clothing

2009-06-24T10:29:00.003-05:00

Original Clothing

1820-1838

Undergarments

Gowns

Bonnets/Shawls/Shoes

Menswear

Children

Paintings

2009-06-23T20:38:00.000-05:00

Paintings
c. 1820-1838

Here I will post different paintings I have found that represent clothing from the 1820's and 1830's. I will try to include a date and an artists name when that information is availble. Since I don't have access to a large library or many museums, these mostly will be gleaned from that source, The Net.

Watercolor ~ c. 1825-1835
from Equinox Antiques

I personally think this painting definitely dates to the 1830's due to the massive sleeves and the low, off-the-shoulder set to the armscye. Check out the plaid and the gorgeous ruffle along the neckline and top of the sleeves! I love her hairstyle and her expression. And look at that tiny waist! Perhaps idealized by the artist who did this painting?

Folk Art Portraits - c. 1835
from Equinox Antiques

The description from the site where I found these did not say if they were man and wife or not. At any rate, I love the hairstyle this lady has. I find it interesting that it appears she is wearing a sheer kerchief or fichu tucked into her neckline. I have been looking for documentation of this as I had thought that this practice died out in the early regency era. I love this look - so much prettier than a chemisette, I think!

Portrait Miniatures ~ c. 1810-1825
from Equinox Antiques

Here are two boys, presumably brothers, posing with toys for their portraits. I loved coming across these since I have three little boys! I love the detail in these portraits. Look at the details on the trousers of the boy on the right. A shaped V-yoke with buttons and what appears to be full gathered or pleated trouser legs.

Jane Ann Campbell ~ 1820
Reproduction Folk Art Painting from Encore Editions

Not so sure about this web source, since what is a "reproduction Folk Art painting"? But, this looks rather authentic so I included it. Isn't this little girl sweet? I love the sweet simplicity of her gown and the dainty frill around her neckline. I also like the print of the gown fabric and the trim around the hem line and sleeve cuffs. So sweet! Her strands of pearls and little doll also add to the charm.

A Lady ~ c. 1825
from Encore Editions

This lady certainly has a look of determination about her! Oh my, there is a lot going on in this painting. The rich, gorgeous shawl with the border, her sheer dress and chemisette. Beneath the frills though this is the basic 1820's silhouette that I like so much. A waistline lower than the previous below-the-bosom line of the regency era, sleeves not yet too full or poufy at the top. I very much like this particular sleeve style. This appears to be conservative of fabric if you are dealing with less-than-ample yardage.

Woman With Shawl and Bonnet ~ 1824

from Encore Editions

I love this one for the cap. Wow.